Against Oblivion: On Fashion, Inheritance, and What is Carried Forward
By Zeynep Baser
To recognise the deliberate messages left in fashion is to add to one’s fluency in wider cultural conversations.
We often talk about fashion as though it were instinctive or superficial, something imagined rather than examined. The blind spot of this perspective is simple: clothing is one of the most legible cultural languages that connects us across generations. It carries symbols, references, and decisions made with intention, many of which are absorbed long before we consciously learn how to name them.
To notice these signals is not to become a fashion insider, but to become culturally attentive. Fashion does not require admiration to be meaningful. It rewards attention.
This attentiveness begins at the level of root. Long before we choose what to wear, taste is shaped through repetition and proximity. Colours are repeated. Silhouettes return without concrete explanation. Certain details feel familiar before they feel deliberately chosen. Perhaps this finds its grounding in the way clothing absorbs memory over time, becoming a quiet archive of gestures and belonging. Fabric remembers stories. Stitches carry years of expertise. These traces are not merely sentimental, but factual.
Fashion has always functioned this way. Before wider cultural language shifts, fashion often becomes the iconoclastic trailblazer through which identity is signalled. Throughout history, indigo marked ancient queens, tartan established lineage, tailoring communicated clarity, and pearls helped reclaim femininity. These materials and codes were not aesthetic afterthoughts, but systems of recognition, legible to those who knew how to read them. Identity was woven before it was written. To recognise this is to understand that clothing is not merely decorative. It is evidential.
This is why designers within fashion houses who work with private symbolism feel particularly resonant. In the work of Jonathan Anderson, small talismanic details recur quietly: a clover, a charm, a motif repeated not as branding but as personal language. These elements do not announce themselves. They speak to those who notice. Anderson’s practice reminds us that fashion is not only about what is seen immediately, but about what is carried across seasons and collections as a form of authorship. Reading these details is interpretive. This sensibility is particularly legible in his recent work at Dior, where recurring emblems and restrained gestures appear across collections as signatures rather than statements, accumulating meaning through continuity rather than spectacle (as explored in Vogue’s profile of Anderson at Dior). Seen together, his collections reward close looking, revealing how authorship can be constructed through detail rather than declaration, a dynamic made visible in Dior’s Spring 2026 ready-to-wear collection, where repetition, proportion, and restraint operate as a visual through-line rather than a single defining moment.
To become fluent in fashion is to sharpen one’s ability to recognise intention elsewhere. We learn to read restraint, reference, continuity, and change. These are not skills confined to clothing. They are cultural competencies.
In this way, fashion trains the eye to see how meaning accumulates and is carried across generations.
Growth, then, is not reinvention. It is reinterpretation. The most compelling contemporary fashion understands this distinction clearly. In Matthieu Blazy’s work for Métiers d’Art, memory appears without nostalgia. Reference replaces reenactment. Craft is carried forward without being preserved behind glass. The collections feel referential rather than reverential. These elements are not framed as spectacle, but embedded quietly into garments intended to move, age, and endure. They acknowledge what came before while refusing to be constrained by it.
Métiers d’Art operates as a lesson in continuity. In the Chanel 2026 Métiers d’Art collection, this philosophy becomes materially explicit: camellias hand-crafted by Lemarié, silk petals cut individually, and atelier disciplines made visible without excess or theatricality. These are not gestures of nostalgia. They are confirmations of knowledge. Blazy’s Chanel does not repeat the past. It understands it. Growth here is refinement, not erasure. This distinction matters far beyond fashion. It offers a model for how cultures evolve without severing their roots.
Fluency also requires responsibility. To recognise symbols is not enough if we do not understand where they come from. Designers such as Mastewal Alemu demonstrate what it means to grow with accountability. Her work exists within a wider ecosystem of contemporary African fashion, where Addis Ababa has emerged as a centre for textile innovation grounded in local production and inherited knowledge (as highlighted in Vogue’s coverage of designers shaping the city’s fashion landscape). Coming from a background in fashion education and textile research, Alemu centres traditional Ethiopian cotton in her work, treating fabric as inherited knowledge rather than raw material. Here, material choice becomes cultural authorship. Her commitment to local production, ethical practice, and zero-waste design situates growth as care rather than expansion. Her garments carry cultural memory through material specificity.
This is where the idea of bloom becomes legible. Bloom is not spectacle. It is arrival. It is the moment when style stops explaining itself and becomes inhabited. When clothing moves with ease because it has absorbed enough meaning to do so. Elegance emerges not as decoration, but as clarity.
We do not dress to be noticed. We dress to remain. Silhouette becomes signature. Colour becomes biography. Personal style endures because fabric holds trace. A garment that is kept, altered, and passed on acquires weight through use. It becomes part of a living record.
To read fashion in this way is to recognise that what endures is never accidental. The details that stay do so because they have been carried, not because they were loud. Against the constant pull of disappearance, fashion offers continuity through attention. It teaches us how to see what is deliberate, how to recognise inheritance, and how to value what is sustained rather than consumed.
This is why fashion matters beyond the industry that produces it. It offers a way of reading culture that privileges memory over novelty and understanding over speed. To become fluent in this language is to sharpen one’s ability to participate in the wider world with discernment.
Fashion does not demand belief. It asks us to notice.
And what we recognise, we help carry forward.
All views expressed in this article are the author’s own, and may not reflect the opinions of N/A Magazine.
Posted Friday 6th February 2026.
Edited by Madeline McDermott.